The Alpine Skies of Aotearoa

The thought of climbing a mountain from sea level to anywhere above ten thousand feet is not something I would be willing to embrace at my fitness level these days.   Yet the desire to experience new environments along with a little adventure still burns strong in my soul.  One of my favorite ecosystems is alpine specifically above tree line.  In my mind it is in some ways very similar to a dessert.  Harsh yet somehow pleasant when conditions are right, and your preparation has been well informed. 

After years of Overlanding my kit has shall we say, gained a few pounds, along with yours truly.  When you have a vehicle as your pack mule you can take it all, from stoves to large tents and a nice comfy sleeping bag with a cot.  I have been absolutely impressed with the evolution of outdoor kit in the last few years.  The solar options are really great like the Goal Zero Crush light and the Mpowerd String Lights.  We had an old saying in the Corps, “travel light, freeze at night” well maybe not so much these days.  My OG go to sleeping bag is from Butler Bags in Cedar City UT and is quite the shelter.  Canvas and flannel were going to have to stay home on this trip.  Switching to a synthetic bag like the Antelope from Western Mountaineering is a big change. 

Another move away from canvas was my tent selection.  Years ago, I picked up this cool canvas geodesic tent in Namibia and it has served me well all over the deserts of North America.  But again, I needed to cut the weight!  Not having to look too far afield I found a company in Bozeman that specializes in lightweight tents.  Stone Glacier is known for packs and other outdoor clothing.   I had my eye on the Sky Solus as it had some unique features along with being another Montana brand.  Got a pair of their Gaiters as well to go over my Kenetrek boots.

The rest of my gear was pretty standard stuff with our Tri-fold Shave Kit, a Jet Boil, a nice mess kit and layers of slippery high-tech clothes.  Finally, a nice blade from Chris Reeve rounded out my gear.  Of course, it all must go somewhere and for the checked kit I had to go with the Sherpa Jr. Expedition duffel and a small fleet of our Packing Cubes.  For my carry on it was C Ruck and a Gator bag as my personal item.  One last bit of technology was a set of Apple Air Tags.

 

With gear sorted and bags packed, just where in the World would I be going? A few weeks before I was staring at the screen on my phone the text simply stated.  “New Zealand?” Without much thought I immediately said “yes” and that is how some of my best adventures have started.  The text had come from my old travel companion Koombie.  From the deserts of Africa to the jungles of Bolivia he has pretty much stuck his feet in just about every river he comes across.  For if the fishing in Montana is not on… well it’s got to be on somewhere.  He knows I really couldn’t care less about fishing and would rather work on my tan than meet a stinky fish. 

With the sudden passing of Mike, Koombie’s father in law our circle of friends and family had a huge hole to fill. Mike was certainly the kind of guy who “planned” a very successful entrepreneur and lover of all things outdoor he was certainly at the top of the list when it came to heading south.  I of course tend to jump first and ask questions later. Either way it was an honor to step up and do my best to fill his boots.  

Accommodations on Air New Zealand were more than satisfactory, and we made it to Christchurch in short order.  A special mixture of inflatable pillows along with an eye mask and two sleeping pills helped speed things along.  Customs officials require that all outdoor gear be spotless on arrival.  So, no hitchhiking varmints like the Goliath Birdeater make their way into the country.   Or maybe they are just neat freaks.  A good rule to abide by is to tidy up all your equipment and have it clean and in good working order before leaving your country.  Or you can spend the time there in customs taking care of it…. Either way it will be done.  

Piling our collection into the back of the Hilux we pointed south and made like bandits for the hills.  But first a nice little diversion to Oamaru for a little fish and chips and some provisions.  With base camp established in the foothills we would spend some time hiking the low country and rucking up in a hundred-year-old sheep herder’s cabin.  Rustic but all the comforts one could need and a nice fire box to keep the chill off.

Oamaru New Zealand

The days of calling for a chopper extraction are well behind me and yet who wouldn’t like to fly the skies like Hermes?  Having arranged our travel ahead of time we waited in the pasture as the bird came in over the horizon with the morning sunrise.  Stuffing our Sherpa Jr. Expedition Series and assorted camping equipment into the chopper we were ready to gain some altitude.  Cresting a ridge, we followed a verdant river valley inland toward the peaks and plateaus of another ecosystem.  

Waitaki river 

Sheer rugged cliffs and scree fields do there best to deter casual wanderer.  Arriving in a high valley we touched down and chucked our gear out in short order as the engine turned.  As the pilot pulled away in a maelstrom of rotor wash and jet turbine exhaust, we were suddenly left in pristine silence well above the tree line.  Pitching camp in the backcountry is markedly different than rolling Overland style.  Our camp would never see a wheeled vehicle ever and that in itself makes for a singular experience on earth these days.

Being Dropped off by the Hilux

Setting up my ultra-light Stone Glacier tent I have to say it is one well thought out piece of gear.  The axiom of travel light freeze at night has been the bane of every trooper ever.  With my new sleeping system, I had also included a standard military issue poncho liner.  The GOAT of warmth and portability and all-around binkie for those in the know. Ground pad in closed cell foam along with an inflatable air mattress.  Say what you will, I like being able to sleep no matter what the weather might throw at me.  

With camp set up it and the sun retreating over the mountains it was time to hunker down and do some cooking.  Being a decent field cook is sure to get you invited on many occasions.  The skills go beyond mastering the actual recipes in a controlled environment.  From deluges to sandstorms and everything in between, you must be able to adjust your methods accordingly.  Of course, there are those barbarians eating freeze dried dung beetles and happy for the convenience and calories.  But we were not on the backside of K2 and I prefer to eat real food when I am experiencing something akin to an outdoors adventure. After all, if you’re out to make those memories that last a lifetime it’s the little details good and bad that make for some of the best challenges and laughter.

Jim Markel Preparing a Meal

Up early the following morning we geared up and started working our way up and out of the valley.  Even with the previous weeks’ hiking and other preparation I found it almost impossible to get any higher.  Facing one’s own decrepitude is not an easy prospect and having it literally stop you in your tracks was about as real as it gets.  Dreams of ranging across the plateaus and crossing icy streams were suddenly dashed.  The boys handed me a radio and an EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon) with a stern warning not to wander off too far as they set out for the day.  Still, I had an awesome vantage point from camp and maybe it was time for some introspection with a minor dose of solitude.

When circumstances force you to stop your pursuits it may just be time to stop and smell the roses as the saying goes.  Or in this case the tiny alpine flowers and lichen along with a multitude of tiny universes fighting for their existence in the rarified air. Trapped in a three-sided valley I had limited mobility yet unlimited perspective.  All I had to do was climb up to the ridgelines and take in all that nature has to offer.  Setting a goal for the day I would climb as high as possible with my C-Ruck packed with water, snacks and my new form of TV (binoculars).  Taking in the wildlife and weather conditions while observing all this wonderful World has to share. 

With the extra time on my hands, I could easily prepare meals for the team.  Being well versed in outdoor cooking I had packed my spices along with a few other essentials.  Doing more with less was certainly a theme for this adventure.  While roasting whole cloves of garlic on a mountainside seems a bit bougie, well it’s all in a day’s work for this trail chef.  Pan seared Red Deer medallions covered in a black pepper garlic sauce.  With a compliment of garlic mashed potatoes to pair nicely with coleslaw.  Durable enough ingredients are a nice tip when you’re looking to serve a hearty and unexpected meal in the back country.  Finished off with a fantastic local coffee roast as the sunset an ominous cloud appeared across the range. 

The team scurried about cleaning up and battening down the tents and loose equipment.  As soon as the sun disappeared the temperature began plummeting as it first began to rain and then hail.  Scrambling into our shelters we hunkered down for the next twenty-four hours as our gear was put to the test.  

Zero visibility and no way for our bird to come pick us up until the skies cleared.

Having missed our window for pickup we had another glorious day of sun following the storm.  We spent another night under the stars this time around.  

Waking to a chilly morning and clear skies we could hear the distant thump of rotors as our machine swooped in to collect us.

Our pilot treated us to an amazing flight out that morning by taking a little bit of a detour along the way.   Showing us the massive rock faces at a distance of only a few meters , cresting saddles and flying down the slopes with a practiced skill.  It was all encompassing experience and one that I find quite intoxicating.  All too soon we were back at the heliport and it was time to disembark for the long flight home. 

Cheers,

Jim